Geoforms Phase 2: Pyramid and Cone


Creating the Cylinder and Cone


Gluing into a blockClamping block


I started off by cutting a 7 foot board of pine into 12 inch sections, and gluing them to create a block that was 6 inches wide, by 6 inches tall, by 12 inches long.

2 cubes 

Next, I cut the 12 inch block into two 5 inch cubes on the band saw. I set up a guard that was 5 1/8 inches from the blade and ran the block through it so that I had two equal pieces. After I had my cubes, I needed to construct the Jig.

Constructing the Jig:

Drilling jig

I started off by taking some scrap wood from my previous geoform project, and angling the band saw to cut off an small piece. After measuring the angles of my cube, I found that I needed to cut at a 27 degree angle. Once my piece was cut out, I drilled a hole that was exactly 2 1/2 inches from the base of the piece.

Pramid Jig     Jig for cutting pyramid

I used a piece of plywood as the base for my jig. I set up a vertical wall at the edge of the jig to create a perfectly straight cut for each angle. My placement of the angled piece was important because it would dictate the size of my cuts. I made sure that the drilled hole in my angled piece was 2 1/2 inches away from both the edge of the jig and the edge of the vertical wall. Once I had my jig set up, I marked an X on the flattest surface of my cube, which gave me the center point of the surface. I then drilled a hole in the center of my cube. I then placed a nail in the two holes that I drilled so that the cube remain in the same position on the jig.

Cutting pyramid     20141105_205904

Next, I set up a guard on the band saw so that the edge of my jig was just behind the saw blade. I ran the cube through the band saw four times to create a near-perfect pyramid. Once I had made my four cuts, I took the pyramid and the jig over to the belt sander, and did a similar technique. I set up a guard next to the sander so that the Jig would rest perpendicular to the sander. I then simply pushed the jig into the belt sander until the pyramid was exactly 5 inches in width.

sanding pyramid

After I had used the sander to get the pyramid to the exact size, I used sand paper to smooth out the surface and remove any marks that had been left behind by the machines.

Making the Cone:

Mid Cone cut

Creating the cone is a very similar process to creating the pyramid. I started off by making another pyramid, but once I had all four sides cut off, I used a separate part of the jig to cut the cone. It is the same as the pyramid jig except there is no wall on the side to prevent it from spinning. I placed the pyramid on the jig and ran it through the band saw at various positions to create a rough cone.

Cone after cutting

Next, I took the same jig over to the belt sander and did a similar process with the pyramid. I place the jig with the cone on top in front of the sander and spun it until the base of the jig was almost touching the sander.

Cone Sanding

Once both my pyramid and cone had been completely hand sanded and all of the imperfections were removed, I covered it with a layer of Polyurethane to seal the wood before I painted it. After the Polyurethane dried, I coated both pieces in glossy white spray paint.

pyramid and cone finished


The spray paint made all of the imperfections quite noticeable, so once it dried, I used some wood filler to hide any of the imperfections. Once the filler dried, I sanded it with high grit sandpaper and re-applied a final layer of paint.

finishing touch cone


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